Nathalie Leturcq’s “Caprichos de Color” collection started in the wildflower-strewn fields of Tenerife’s northwestern coast. While she became known for her vine leaf prints, this collection is evidence of considerable personal and professional growth.
The Tenerife Moda show opened to an upbeat rhythm, the same positive vibes that were echoed in the large bouquet of yellow flowers carried in the arms of one of the models. Yet, as with everything in Nathalie Leturcq’s collection, a deeper meaning exists. A reason for being. Of course, these were no ordinary flowers, but a bouquet of Solidago Canadensis L, inviting onlookers to ask the question “Why is the flower used solely for decorative purposes in the Canary Islands?”
Tenerife 's countryside takes centre stage
Anyone familiar with Leturq’s work will be aware of her vast botanical knowledge and dedication to using quality materials. The candyfloss pink to the vibrant fuchsia tones all come from dry cochineal from Lanzarote, a product with its denomination of origin, DOP Islas Canarias. The yellow comes from the vibrant Reseda Luteola and the list goes on.
This atemporal collection portrays the vibrant and irreproducible dance of natural colours. Casual in attitude, yet upon closer inspection, rather stringent in design with each seam, a fold of linen and print placement carefully calculated to bring the magic of nature alive.
This atemporal collection portrays the vibrant and irreproducible dance of natural colours
As the models filed out all barefoot with a Joie de vie air about their walk, it felt as though Leturcq was guiding the spectator through a field of wildflowers with every twist and turn of the model echoing the curious way flowers dance in the midsummer breeze.
Craft and colour collide
Dresses, skirts, tops and trousers made from linen, silk and bamboo graced the catwalk, showing the range of Nathalie’s dressmaking skills. New techniques such as an ombre indigo dye with cut-out floral applications took the form of a long, sun dress with a distinctive plunge V-neck neckline; its floaty form designed to combat the scorching heat of a Tenerife summertime. Cochineal tie dye breathed life into a midi-beach dress worn with a sky-blue sarong and crochet bag from Cerraja.
Cochineal camouflage
Caprichos de Color definitely lived up to its name with colour experimentation taking place on more than one garment.
However, the lightness, fluidity and ease of the previous looks were contrasted with the cropped, pleated, kimono-style dress, cinched in at the waist by an elaborately tied belt. Yet it wasn’t the tailored appearance of this look that caught the eye of onlookers but the print that covered the surface of the fabric itself.
Using different concentrations of fixers for the dye, Nathalie used cochineal and other plants to colour the garment with a print that brilliantly echoes a military camouflage design. Vision of beauty, or eco-warrior? Or Both? This design signals a new era for Leturcq.
The return of eco-print
Of course it is impossible to overlook the application of eco-print using wildflowers and vine leaves, a strong blueprint throughout Nathalie’s work. Leturcq has spent the last ten years perfecting this technique and wove it into many looks within the collection. Perhaps the most notable application of this technique is the strappy sundress accompanied by a necklace made from luffa dyed with the reseda luteola plant and a straw hat adorned with a dyed silk scarf.
Surreal summer fun
As always with Nathalie Leturcq, there is a touch of childhood innocence and fun. This manifested itself in the form of a cactus bag created using natural moss and decorated with a cutting of the Opuntia ficus indica plant, the exact species used to extract the cochineal, coccus costa. However, the accessory that turned everyone’s heads was certainly the ceramic, larger-than-life ice cream cone filled with a generous helping of sunshine yellow ceramic ice cream and rainbow sprinkles designed by Señora Valls.
It is refreshing to see natural dyes on the catwalk and the unashamedly graceful way in which they were integrated into the collection. Nathalie Leturcq is right, sustainable fashion shouldn’t be a side thought. And, with her finesse and undeniable talent, it won’t be a peripheral notion for long.
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